Weather bingo

DAY 61
Grand Ronde, OR to Rockaway Beach, OR

Today is the day. Landlocked since turning our backs and riding away from the Atlantic Ocean 60 days ago, today the majestic Pacific Ocean is within our grasp. Although not the end of our journey, a mere 30 miles separates us from successfully cycling from sea to shining sea. You'd think we'd be hyped up on excitement and anticipation. In reality, a mixture of emotions mask themselves in a calm nervous atmosphere. That is at least until the salty coastal air penetrates our nostrils and the last hill standing between us and the ocean falls behind. 

We race downhill through the morning mist and fog. The thick pine tree forest obscures our view around every corner. Each turn the anticipation builds but fails to result in the shimmering picturesque ocean view I've imagined in my mind. It takes a break in a row of condos lining the beach before we have our first glimpse of the elusive ocean. A giant rocky sea cliff spills into the surf. The long flat sandy beach stretches west meeting the cold Pacific waters a quarter mile out. We've made it! A celebratory breakfast at a cafe along the ocean front is in order.

Racing to see the ocean

Coastal Highway 101 will be our yellow brick road from here on out. As the road parallels the coastline over ridges and in and out of natural harbors, a low lying layer of clouds build on the north end of outlying rock cliffs. Backing up behind these mountains, the dense fog and clouds spill over the tops of the hills like waves breaking on the shore. Consequently, we alternate between sunny warm weather along the southern end of each inlet and climb into a windy, wet clouded jungle on the north end. The temperature in the sun peaks at 85 degrees, then plummets to 60 degrees in the fog and wind. Flats jokingly describes these bipolar extremes as weather bingo.

We made it!!! :)

In stark contrast to yesterday's uneventfulness, todays destinations, scenery, and excitement rule the day. We roll through beach towns, state parks, and forested back roads. Each one beautiful, but still only a side note to the magnificent Pacific Ocean. Jagged sea stacks rise out of the sand and surf like marooned pirate ships. Surfers can be seen bobbing in the water awaiting their natural high of catching a wave. Traffic increases as the morning gives way to the afternoon. On these narrow, winding roads with everyone including us distracted by the scenery, it's not ideal riding conditions. The number of cyclists we encounter traveling in the opposite direction of us increased ten fold once we'd turned onto Highway 101. Most of these cyclists are not traveling along the TransAmerica Bicycle Route as we are, but instead are heading south to San Francisco or further along the Pacific Coast Route.

This is what we call weather bingo

We love the way cyclists are portrayed as if they're wild animals!

The Tillamook Cheese Factory is conveniently located along our route. Squeaky cheese, habanero cheddar, mild cheddar, sharp cheddar, monterey jack... Three times through the sample line, oh yeah! We finish off our tour with Mountain Huckleberry ice cream. In my opinion, this should be the official end to the bicycle trail.

Cheese!!!

We had been calling state and county parks all day trying to find a reasonably priced place to camp this evening. These greedy delusional parks want to charge us $20 to $25 a person to camp in a hiker/biker campsite, which is equivalent to a spot on the lawn and a picnic table. Between the three of us, $75 to set a tent up is asinine. If I'm going to pay that much for a basic campsite, sexual favors better be included. 

Sierra's house

So happy :)

I really didn't want to spend our last day on the trail badgering churches and fire stations, but our options were dwindling. In the town of Garibaldi, a stop at the local natural food market proved promising. A worker by the name of Sierra offered to let us camp on her lawn in the town of Rockaway Beach five miles farther up Highway 101. When we arrived at her house the offer to sleep outside was rescinded, but a better offer of sleeping in her upstairs apartment which is currently unoccupied was given. We graciously accepted her hospitality. At sunset, she accompanied us down to her flawless Oregon beach. For the first time since reaching the coast we're able to touch the Pacific waters, run barefoot and splash in the tidal pools and crashing waves. One day of this amazing adventure remains. I don't know if it's possible to be completely ready, but at the same time not at all ready for it to be over. But I am.

Rockaway Beach

Such a great way to end the day, thank you Sierra!

Stats:
Miles: 82.94
Average speed: 11.4 mph
Max speed: 34.3 mph
Odometer: 4359 miles