Seven devils

DAY 52
Grangeville, ID to New Meadows, ID

As we approach the two month mark of our trek across country, it's not that we're not enjoying ourselves anymore. The scenery is outstanding, the freedom and spontaneous adventure is everything we could of asked for. It's just that we are completely burnt out on cycling. We're over being tired with sore asses all the time. The guys touring on motorcycles, they have the right idea. But then you get into the argument of the positive physical challenges bicycle touring offers. We're not burnt out, we're just tired. 60 miles a day, with rest days every fourth day. That would be ideal. Yeah right, imagine how bored we'd be. Our adventure has been perfect. I wouldn't change a thing.

Free camping at the Lions Club Park

Becky started the day in a tank top, it's going to be a hot one!

Sore and tired, I had hit the snooze alarm more than an hour and a half ago. We roll out of the tent as the sun already warms the dewy grass we'd slept on. It's going to be a hot day. Not the best day to sleep in, being that we skirt Hells Canyon National Recreation Area today. 

Heading down into White Bird

Good morning!

As our hands cramp from pressing and releasing the brakes, I can't contain the smile on my face. The road below us resembles a coiled snake bending back and forth on itself. It reminds me of the old school Nintendo game Excite Bike, where you can design your own racecourse. I lose track attempting to count the number of switchbacks at 15. Dropping into the small town of White Bird at the bottom of the descent, we join another cyclist who we had met the day before. Bruce, a retired Virginian, is living out his life time dream of cycling across country. His wife (Barbara?) drives their car in support along route, but also cycles with him on occasion. Bruce is raving about his descent down Hwy 95. From our vantage along the true route of Old Hwy 95, Bruce's path could be seen to the west. A direct road straight down into White Bird without a single curve. He states that somehow he missed the turnoff to Old Hwy 95, but loved the route he took with its wide shoulder and great road. I don't have the heart to tell him he missed the single greatest descent of the entire TransAmerica Bicycle Trail.

Some of the switchbacks of Old Hwy 95

I complain about headwinds all the time, so let me take a minute to complain about tailwinds. First off, we never experience them enough. Secondly, when you have a tailwind, yes it helps you along, but since the breeze is blowing with you, it's as if there is no breeze at all. The trees and grass can be seen bent forward while you appear to be in a vacuum. And on a scorching hot day like this, it's a stifling uncomfortable vacuum.

Crossing the mighty Salmon River

An ancient Native American legend gives this area it's name of the Seven Devils Range. The myth describes an Indian Brave who was lost in the area and later told a tale of being chased by seven different devils. As we progress through this same area along the bottom of the Salmon River gorge, the unforgiving landscape becomes apparent. With the heat amplified, the walls of the canyon do take on a hostile life of their own. It's easy to imagine the canyon as an evil entity wishing you harm.

Becky attempting to cool off

A long standing joke Becky and I share fits in too perfect to this situation. Many years ago, in an attempt to bring Becky out of a funk I saw coming on, I placed both hands on her head and with a jolting upwards thrust I yelled "Demons out!" Not sure whether this would be viewed as funny or mocking, a smile slowly crossed her face. I knew I was in the clear. So today as we sweat our way through this hellishly hot road, Becky's attitude rises with the mercury. Heat doesn't effect me as it effects her. It's a harsh but beautiful landscape in my eyes. I spend the day sweating yes, but also taking photos and enjoying myself. At one point Becky scowls at me and exclaims, "What, are you immune to the heat?" I think to myself, I don't know about seven devils, but I sure have one tailing me all day. I don't feel it's appropriate to share this thought with Becky until we're done riding for the day and are enjoying an ice cold Mike's Hard Lemonade. Idaho may be the prettiest state as of yet!

We took a two hour break to escape the heat

And some friendly people fed us fried chicken and chips! Thank you Pinehurst Resort!

Stats:
Miles: 87.5
Max speed: 34 mph
Odometer: 3679 miles